Silhouette Patterns #600 Classic Blouse

Like the Silhouette #195 Sweater Set that I reviewed here, I was ambivalent about the Classic Blouse. I felt that maybe it was a little too classic for me, where classic meant that it looked like something my grandmother would have worn. In this case, I feel as though my grandmother may actually have owned one that looked just like the one on the envelope. 

The bad envelope photo and it's unfortunate association with my grandmother (who, for the record, passed in 1983; that's how classic this blouse is) is the reason for my hesitation, despite the urging of my wonderful Sewing Sisters. Additionally, it has a one piece collar (no separate collar stand) and the fastening on the long sleeve can only be described as funky. (I could describe it otherwise but that would be unkind.) These also contributed to my hesitancy. I finally capitulated because this pattern is the basis for every woven top numbered under 1000 in Silhouette's line of patterns. Knowing the changes I need to make to achieve a good fit on this pattern give me a head start on any of their other woven tops. 

But I digress. I started by cutting a size 2. This should have fit, but the center fronts could barely be pulled into position. I scratched my head over this literally for days and in the process, made all my Sisters feel my pain. In the end I determined that the fullness of the blouse didn't match up with the fullness of my bust. I tried lowering the dart and that helped, but it didn't entirely resolve the issue. 

So I made a bold decision. I threw out all my old bras and completely embraced my new bras. Not only did they give me an instant bust reduction of over an inch, but they also give me a more "youthful silhouette." In other words, they hoist the girls back into something approximating their original position. Armed with this knowledge, I cut a size 2* at the shoulders and a 2.5 at the side seams. In other words, I added half the difference between the size 2 and the size 3 to my side seams. I used a size 3 arm scye and sleeve (more about this in a post to follow). I made a 5/8" forward shoulder adjustment and a 3/4" swayback adjustment.

About that swayback adjustment...no center back seam is necessary. Simply make the adjustment, then place the top and bottom of the pattern piece on the fold. It's not necessary to add tissue to the pattern piece and you don't need to worry about the straight grain of the fabric. You've established a new grain line and that's okay; your finished garment won't be wonky. I haven't found the extra circumference this adds to be an issue at all in knits. In a woven garment, you could deepen the back darts, if available, or on a garment without darts, you could compensate at the side seams.

So with those changes to the pattern, I sewed it up and...it fit! I had anticipated needing to lower the bust point, but it was fine right where it was. Hurray new bras!

I tried to hem it following the pattern instructions (serge the bottom edge, then fold it up 3/8" and top stitch, but I didn't like the results I got on the shirttail hem (I never do). So I purchased single-fold bias tape and used it to finish my hem. I stitch it on by machine, then fold it up and do the final stitching by hand. I love the finish I get doing it this way.

After trying on the finished blouse and consulting with my Sisters, I decided to deepen the darts in the back of the blouse. I did this by a little more than 1/8" (1/4" total for each dart; 1/2" overall). This gave me a much shaplier looking back and made it feel less like a Boho top and more like a fitted blouse.

I'm still not convinced 100% on the collar. It took a really good pressing to get it to hug my neck properly, but I was convinced enough to cut another in a beautiful 100% cotton poplin purchased at Fabric.com. I had hoped to have enough fabric left after cutting to make my own bias binding for the hems, but, sadly, I did not; purchased bias tape it will be. I'll add photos of the second blouse after I finish.

Thanks for reading!

Paula

Photo taken prior to deepening the back darts.

*Silhouette patterns are sized by finished garment measurement, not by body measurements. The owner/designer, Peggy Sagers, says to choose your size based on a similar garment you already own that fits you well, or, if you don't own one, to try on clothes at a store until you find a well-fitting garment, then measure that one. Okay, so I guessed. To put you in the ball park, I'm going to give you my measurements so you can compare them to the garment measurements and look at the ease of the garment in my photos.

My measurements...
Bust: 36.5
Waist: 31.5
Hips: 38.5