Silhouette #418, Fisher's Pleated Blouse

This was my first foray into Silhouette pattern. The blouse is described as:

"New from the Fall 2018 Eileen Fisher runway, this beautiful pleated front blouse is perfect on every shape and size. The neckline is finished with an easy bias binding, the cup sizing is built into the blouse at the side seam so every shape and size has been included. The pleat is stunning and gives the body a vertical line to thin visually. The sleeve is 3/4 length and finished with a narrow band with a button. This pattern is for woven fabrics but could also be done in a knit if using a knit sleeve substitution."

I have had a string of wadders in recent weeks, so I desperately needed a win, and this pattern is a definite winner. It came to my attention while watching Peggy Sager's "Fall Fashion Forecast" video, where she was wearing the blouse. I went immediately to her website, ordered the pattern, then settled in to wait for it to arrive. 

In the meantime, I prepped my fabric, a black linen/rayon blend purchased at least decade ago at Joann. I don't remember what I was originally planning to do with it, but it must have been HUGE because I have yards and yards of this stuff. So I was willing to sacrifice some to the cause of making something that fit.

Silhouette patterns are unique in their sizing. Each pattern includes size ranges 1 to 4 and 5W to 8W. The measurement range for each size represent the finished size of the garment, not body measurements. Needless to say, I was "confused" about what size I would need to make. When the pattern came, I started tracing off a size 3. Then, in a Facebook group dedicated to Silhouette patterns, I noticed that someone who looked around my size had made it up in a size 2 and it fit her nicely. So I retraced the pattern in the smaller size.

After I traced the pattern, I prepped it for a tissue fitting. First, I drew in the stitching lines, reinforced them with Scotch tape, and pinned them together. Based on the tissue fitting, I lowered the bust point 3/4". I'm not convinced that was exactly right; 1" might be better, but it's certainly in the acceptable range. Then I narrowed the shoulders by, again, 3/4".

Then I started sewing!

The instruction were easy to understand, even for this spatially-challenged individual. That being said, I didn't follow them exactly because I wasn't confident in my ability to execute them well. Instead, I fell back on some more traditional home sewing techniques. 

For example, the instructions had you sew both ends of the bias neck band, turn it right  side out and press the seam allowances to the wrong side. You would then proceed to sandwich the seam allowance of the neck edge into the neck band and attach it with only a row of edge stitching. Yeah. That was not going to work for me, so I folded one long edge to the wrong side, then stitched the other side to the neck edge right sides together. Then I folded it to the wrong side and top stitched it.
While this blouse started as a muslin for which I had vague hopes that it might turn out to be wearable, it turned out to be far more than that. The fit isn't perfect, but it's very wearable and I love it.

I do plan to make it again. When I do I'll probably raise the vee according to the directions that Peggy helpfully included in the instructions. It's not that I don't like the vee because I do; it's every bit as slimming as Peggy said it would be. It's more that I would prefer it to be slightly different than the first one. I might also add a skosh more room at the bust; less than an inch, but I won't be sure until I have a chance to wear the blouse and maybe get some female feedback. 

As I said above, this was my first time making a Silhouette pattern and I am very pleased with the results. I'll be purchasing and making more.

More photos. I know...black doesn't show any details. As Nina Garcia would say...not very editorial.