tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12192173091480218482024-03-12T20:39:35.952-07:00Sew ConfusedChronicling the trials and tribulations encountered on the road to becoming a master sewist.Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.comBlogger136125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-50838697954378205532021-08-02T09:24:00.001-07:002021-08-02T09:24:39.502-07:00Simplicity 2560<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcmVonIHAWjznAbeMpY7bUu1tOAyHLHnx6ZN4np5w4DzOmYdIMQlxXXNHOiqQW6hVNh3gzD-pjfSsjZ_x2ZxJ7e55ysD99Rk0h9ykeaaiT2U3Kfx2-2Becov045iPLBcbjDl1eSms1JhI/s660/2021-08-02+%25282%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="460" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcmVonIHAWjznAbeMpY7bUu1tOAyHLHnx6ZN4np5w4DzOmYdIMQlxXXNHOiqQW6hVNh3gzD-pjfSsjZ_x2ZxJ7e55ysD99Rk0h9ykeaaiT2U3Kfx2-2Becov045iPLBcbjDl1eSms1JhI/w139-h200/2021-08-02+%25282%2529.png" width="139" /></a></div><br />This future sewing project used a pattern that had been aging in my stash for at least a couple of years. Simplicity 2560 is a cardigan in five views designed for stretch knits. Suggested fabrics include jerseys, matte jerseys, and double knits. I chose View A.<p></p><p>I used a 100% cotton jersey purchased at Joann. While I'm pleased with the final result, I think my fabric doesn't really do this pattern justice the way a drapier knit would. I intend to make this again in something softer and possibly in a solid color rather than a print to better showcase the drape of the neckband.</p><p>Since this was another pattern with cut-on sleeves, I once again skipped tracing my size and cut the pattern tissue.</p><p>I literally have nothing interesting to say about sewing this pattern. I made it from cutting to hemming in a single evening with no issues.</p><p>I made a Size 10. For your reference, here are my measurements and the measurements from the back of the pattern envelope. Keep in mind that the waist measurement is fairly irrelevant for this design and also that I am quite small around the rib cage, where the raised waist seam falls on this garment. YMMV.<br /><br />Bust: 36.5<br />Waist: 31.5<br />Hips: 38.5</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij4dyNQf2dGm7r3uoImSBdi12S0xNNrXmI17dtHJboF-DBWrPe8I4wg2K2n3oy0LjStLQwXwPQ0BN7nZys-WToyF981B459xiEaXULxFR4ueIec8O_Lc5hzdtUZiy-gVNyUFQmmw5cjLM/s383/2021-08-02+%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="125" data-original-width="383" height="104" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij4dyNQf2dGm7r3uoImSBdi12S0xNNrXmI17dtHJboF-DBWrPe8I4wg2K2n3oy0LjStLQwXwPQ0BN7nZys-WToyF981B459xiEaXULxFR4ueIec8O_Lc5hzdtUZiy-gVNyUFQmmw5cjLM/s320/2021-08-02+%25281%2529.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Thanks for reading!</p><p>Paula</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Gallery</h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ij5m3JEmDfRg-clmtkdXWeRyGBUOLk5BCmpRoSOIdlh61Xfnj9GeKPDLEqy1q7Wj-ABs5xlan6YqrQTM7kFKbRKf7y-5vgxBaHNHJ3E494x8sXG9crj0QBiChMw1f8oJQGGwRApZNMU/s2048/IMG_1486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1539" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ij5m3JEmDfRg-clmtkdXWeRyGBUOLk5BCmpRoSOIdlh61Xfnj9GeKPDLEqy1q7Wj-ABs5xlan6YqrQTM7kFKbRKf7y-5vgxBaHNHJ3E494x8sXG9crj0QBiChMw1f8oJQGGwRApZNMU/s320/IMG_1486.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSFX5UZvstrVojpunqNFIT_fxS2A0fBpqSTLeqJzp-Yhf4V5SBqNUacAXeO2viDV3cqq9jBlUfDEvcpBggWkmWCRvkfHcIf5tAQbT_1VhfFs2mSY2AoLk_IIKOCZs14Gasdb1JqG_wleE/s2048/IMG_1488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1539" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSFX5UZvstrVojpunqNFIT_fxS2A0fBpqSTLeqJzp-Yhf4V5SBqNUacAXeO2viDV3cqq9jBlUfDEvcpBggWkmWCRvkfHcIf5tAQbT_1VhfFs2mSY2AoLk_IIKOCZs14Gasdb1JqG_wleE/s320/IMG_1488.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div>Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-16854797100179432002021-08-01T20:29:00.002-07:002021-08-02T06:39:20.122-07:00New Look 6575<p> Back in January and February, I undertook some "future sewing." By future sewing, I mean I was sewing clothes that would fit after an anticipated weight loss. It was risky but no risk, no reward, right?<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdIf0_I3BplCcaUgXwl1YQvQVUfgYPCWRDP6VF-72M8c4xR4XC3jF3bptTKXnGcvy5i6Ry-M6exvR0a0GHzFYdm1EYsQ13MsjwMPrcx_nqL_I8-gEbEa02wrbuqQ_vOHPjR7EivR48Zqg/s645/2021-08-01+%25281%2529.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="461" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdIf0_I3BplCcaUgXwl1YQvQVUfgYPCWRDP6VF-72M8c4xR4XC3jF3bptTKXnGcvy5i6Ry-M6exvR0a0GHzFYdm1EYsQ13MsjwMPrcx_nqL_I8-gEbEa02wrbuqQ_vOHPjR7EivR48Zqg/w143-h200/2021-08-01+%25281%2529.png" width="143" /></a></div>One of the first tops I made was <a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/tops--vests/new-look-sewing-pattern-6575-misses-tunics/" target="_blank">New Look 6575</a> View B, a top designed for woven fabrics with cut-on sleeves and an extremely deep vee neckline. Deep like it should always be worn over a cami, despite the styling on the pattern envelope. I felt like this would be a good choice for future sewing because the design minimized the need for some of the adjustments I regularly make. For example, narrow shoulders and sway back. I also skipped my usual forward shoulder adjustment because I couldn't figure out how to make it at the time (although after thinking about it for several months, I can now see how it would be accomplished).<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIucSVIEvDSoJfl9P1YbPRRHjHOvz2qKVzFbgJRBaLurbpqmPNKhy3Nwc8tQIjcT0t7KFzmsK2eyRi7nTv3jUJO4RwPR_Ln4dNBEX5SZXrapPBtzonVuKAR7lijRdYQDYUCLb3TWOgeZw/s678/2021-08-01.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="678" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIucSVIEvDSoJfl9P1YbPRRHjHOvz2qKVzFbgJRBaLurbpqmPNKhy3Nwc8tQIjcT0t7KFzmsK2eyRi7nTv3jUJO4RwPR_Ln4dNBEX5SZXrapPBtzonVuKAR7lijRdYQDYUCLb3TWOgeZw/w188-h185/2021-08-01.png" width="188" /></a></div>I chose Kaufman Wishwell Lawn Packed Floral in the Day colorway, an exclusive at Fabric.com. I'm not big fan of prints in general, and especially florals, but this beautiful print really spoke to me. I know that everyone is all gaga over Liberty Tana Lawn, but in a side-by-side comparison, I can't see or feel an appreciable difference. <br /><p></p><p>So the story of sewing this top is very short. I didn't even bother to trace off the pattern in my size; I cut right into the tissue. I'm not sure if that was confidence that I would, indeed, lose the weight I intended to use or madness. In either event, that's what I did.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNuuXgFkoBmgFJZlBFrFeGMc9eSGo1DikMqbzgATb3VTERSSR-sdG5rf-XY1CdxaZSVhGU-iMRrdknNEgP3KJbljF3rbMknDLraj6eO-YW9xrJQ6CwR_20ZByHUj5mIGu1eaFl50oDWpw/s2048/IMG_1701.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNuuXgFkoBmgFJZlBFrFeGMc9eSGo1DikMqbzgATb3VTERSSR-sdG5rf-XY1CdxaZSVhGU-iMRrdknNEgP3KJbljF3rbMknDLraj6eO-YW9xrJQ6CwR_20ZByHUj5mIGu1eaFl50oDWpw/w200-h150/IMG_1701.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Sewing the top was very straightforward. The pattern instructions are good. There is, however, one issue with an orphan notch, that is, a notch on the front bodice side seam without a corresponding notch on the back. <br /><br />There was a moment of panic when I tried it on for the first time. Even taking into consideration that I had made it as something to wear <i>in the future</i>, it seemed as though it might be too small even then. You can see in the envelope photo that the top is supposed to be gathered around the raised waist seam; on me, it fit, but with no gathers. I had my doubts about it ever fitting.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCDnWnwJhM15m2oWnWzxIJMK8FDozEbR-5hITQvsmadqnhRMvdIC9QY3T5aL-lCiTXujiB3NZgOcEBXFOk4bcquO9O-Aems7GcNaktAhS8Eja6jPsoAG1Q7898wS4rL-txSz2u75Zvkg8/s2048/0E9470E1-164D-46DB-98B4-BC06C27A9AAB.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCDnWnwJhM15m2oWnWzxIJMK8FDozEbR-5hITQvsmadqnhRMvdIC9QY3T5aL-lCiTXujiB3NZgOcEBXFOk4bcquO9O-Aems7GcNaktAhS8Eja6jPsoAG1Q7898wS4rL-txSz2u75Zvkg8/w186-h186/0E9470E1-164D-46DB-98B4-BC06C27A9AAB.JPG" width="186" /></a></div>Regardless, I forged ahead and, in another moment of madness, decided that the beautiful lawn fabric deserved a hand rolled hem. So that's what I did. It was a lot of hand hemming, accomplished over the course of a couple of days, but I love the result that I got.<p></p><p>And, fortunately, 30 pounds later, it fits quite well, with gathers at the waist seam. Phew! So I made another one. This time, using the bodice from View B once again, but with the handkerchief hem of View C. And no hand rolled hem.</p><p><br /></p><p>I made Size Small. For your reference, here are my measurements and the pattern measurements. Keep in mind that waist size is fairly irrelevant on this design and also that I am quite small around the rib cage (32" to be exact, where the waist seam falls) in relation to my actual waist. I'm also not a fan of a lot of extra ease. YMMV.</p><p>Bust: 36.5<br />Waist: 31.5<br />Hips: 38.5</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNb7p4vitoXTe0d4yi3CCULOPWhczcAK4gkzD2M8rHJn8olJdBc710AcgcpAENtc5ViQ-qpCvH-Hkdg0E2e_1pHYiHA2wVQkiUxN95_njnUuKWnGdPFVKumPQpdQyAOUh-1a8XbZHEiA/s587/2021-08-01+%25282%2529.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="241" data-original-width="587" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcNb7p4vitoXTe0d4yi3CCULOPWhczcAK4gkzD2M8rHJn8olJdBc710AcgcpAENtc5ViQ-qpCvH-Hkdg0E2e_1pHYiHA2wVQkiUxN95_njnUuKWnGdPFVKumPQpdQyAOUh-1a8XbZHEiA/s320/2021-08-01+%25282%2529.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Thanks for reading!</p><p>Paula</p><p></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Gallery</h3><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDzRiyn6qd1JQ6uL8SSnuSi2yrz-bu6Nx8s67sIpGS373Ou2zLod9nHM5hySjFAiKL1USyM3EJ4KqkJ0KN04X__pnfgzl4mIy3-C-ETuDaX5UnnnL2wuvYaFwIU-zmgZo0kLPslKeYt-w/s2048/IMG_1540+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDzRiyn6qd1JQ6uL8SSnuSi2yrz-bu6Nx8s67sIpGS373Ou2zLod9nHM5hySjFAiKL1USyM3EJ4KqkJ0KN04X__pnfgzl4mIy3-C-ETuDaX5UnnnL2wuvYaFwIU-zmgZo0kLPslKeYt-w/s320/IMG_1540+1.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished garment displayed on a hanger, which, of course, doesn't show it off to its best advantage. More photos coming soon.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><br /><br /><p></p>Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-9017172265033436012021-04-24T12:46:00.005-07:002021-04-26T12:55:43.057-07:00Silhouette Patterns #600 Classic Blouse<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiqoJ6ei8a-Yj9HrOk6dtIJ4FwFFNKd3-5o9mK_CUXNy-pHPfpkwNlmnh6hH7TlXnEddU1ZMRGp-LkeZ6FQpfuR7EG5XuAU6HYBAfEXzRR2sqK6P_0mZykXt2MhzhScOc6ma9U3wDqStU/s485/600_front.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="485" data-original-width="400" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiqoJ6ei8a-Yj9HrOk6dtIJ4FwFFNKd3-5o9mK_CUXNy-pHPfpkwNlmnh6hH7TlXnEddU1ZMRGp-LkeZ6FQpfuR7EG5XuAU6HYBAfEXzRR2sqK6P_0mZykXt2MhzhScOc6ma9U3wDqStU/w165-h200/600_front.jpg" width="165" /></a></div>Like the Silhouette #195 Sweater Set that I reviewed </span><a href="http://sewconfused.blogspot.com/2019/01/a-new-tnt-pattern.html" style="text-align: left;" target="_blank">here</a><span style="text-align: left;">, I was ambivalent about the Classic Blouse. I felt that maybe it was a little </span><i style="text-align: left;">too</i><span style="text-align: left;"> classic for me, where classic meant that it looked like something my grandmother would have worn. In this case, I feel as though my grandmother may actually have owned one that looked just like the one on the envelope. </span></div><br />The bad envelope photo and it's unfortunate association with my grandmother (who, for the record, passed in 1983; that's how classic this blouse is) is the reason for my hesitation, despite the urging of my wonderful Sewing Sisters. Additionally, it has a one piece collar (no separate collar stand) and the fastening on the long sleeve can only be described as funky. (I could describe it otherwise but that would be unkind.) These also contributed to my hesitancy. I finally capitulated because this pattern is the basis for every woven top numbered under 1000 in Silhouette's line of patterns. Knowing the changes I need to make to achieve a good fit on this pattern give me a head start on any of their other woven tops. <p></p><p>But I digress. I started by cutting a size 2. This should have fit, but the center fronts could barely be pulled into position. I scratched my head over this literally for days and in the process, made all my Sisters feel my pain. In the end I determined that the fullness of the blouse didn't match up with the fullness of my bust. I tried lowering the dart and that helped, but it didn't entirely resolve the issue. </p><p>So I made a bold decision. I threw out all my old bras and completely embraced my new bras. Not only did they give me an instant bust reduction of over an inch, but they also give me a more "youthful silhouette." In other words, they hoist the girls back into something approximating their original position. Armed with this knowledge, I cut a size 2* at the shoulders and a 2.5 at the side seams. In other words, I added half the difference between the size 2 and the size 3 to my side seams. I used a size 3 arm scye and sleeve (more about this in a post to follow). I made a 5/8" forward shoulder adjustment and a 3/4" swayback adjustment.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZDf1Wrl_z3skcDVardnAsjZnKtFqPxfVuAf2IWelUKyD_oAk8hQtx_VbZfsDmMDy85JH41Zzgl0RzMstyMzxuQjge-U7ou4Zu_0FZfSXm4beYUyZc91w2EIC2gtp7VPriMHuNjZM18Y/s2048/IMG_1575.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1387" data-original-width="2048" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZDf1Wrl_z3skcDVardnAsjZnKtFqPxfVuAf2IWelUKyD_oAk8hQtx_VbZfsDmMDy85JH41Zzgl0RzMstyMzxuQjge-U7ou4Zu_0FZfSXm4beYUyZc91w2EIC2gtp7VPriMHuNjZM18Y/w200-h136/IMG_1575.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>About that swayback adjustment...no center back seam is necessary. Simply make the adjustment, then place the top and bottom of the pattern piece on the fold. It's not necessary to add tissue to the pattern piece and you don't need to worry about the straight grain of the fabric. You've established a new grain line and that's okay; your finished garment won't be wonky. I haven't found the extra circumference this adds to be an issue at all in knits. In a woven garment, you could deepen the back darts, if available, or on a garment without darts, you could compensate at the side seams.<br /><br />So with those changes to the pattern, I sewed it up and...it fit! I had anticipated needing to lower the bust point, but it was fine right where it was. Hurray new bras!<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="text-align: left;">I tried to hem it following the pattern instructions (serge the bottom edge, then fold it up 3/8" and top stitch, but I didn't like the results I got on the shirttail hem (I never do). So I purchased single-fold bias tape and used it to finish my hem. I stitch it on by machine, then fold it up and do the final stitching by hand. I love the finish I get doing it this way.</span></div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhum4ADWyaPzJWRCjQnDHHM6CKId2KdfSearKCeUga-Aba4sNehYu2s9X5zdCKJpA4bdLSgeGq8RBZrSYF5DeqL1o8Oz74S8CZtc0tGQgJ2GlH8J0TMr4t-1ZI6IEvpJ4N2BwBaAEPi8_A/s2048/IMG_1579.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1312" data-original-width="2048" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhum4ADWyaPzJWRCjQnDHHM6CKId2KdfSearKCeUga-Aba4sNehYu2s9X5zdCKJpA4bdLSgeGq8RBZrSYF5DeqL1o8Oz74S8CZtc0tGQgJ2GlH8J0TMr4t-1ZI6IEvpJ4N2BwBaAEPi8_A/w200-h128/IMG_1579.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDr-KBQgtYoypvgFHY7_9nQbxCpksRojXHwZIFEKTE2PuQyyFc-8neaunqy2FWrEcs0uNGovbyVR5-ixoMjnqQ-_rQKOlZ1D8iYIVKsXXxWPaAlo__QM4xlVU64fXVhld4U0PdYMpmP9E/s2048/IMG_1583.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDr-KBQgtYoypvgFHY7_9nQbxCpksRojXHwZIFEKTE2PuQyyFc-8neaunqy2FWrEcs0uNGovbyVR5-ixoMjnqQ-_rQKOlZ1D8iYIVKsXXxWPaAlo__QM4xlVU64fXVhld4U0PdYMpmP9E/w200-h150/IMG_1583.jpg" width="200" /></a><p></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsjiMP3p9TNHwxyH31BZJvRqgQE3TqYko8gR-i7BOZGuumFAt_sLzGTGO4mN07uGR1d2P158y0LSGVMm968IMsIFC4e9E9RjJxF4G0LPD5zu4893IPSvsPOeBwbMsIdjTZ8U8JK-3t0Q/s2048/IMG_1581.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsjiMP3p9TNHwxyH31BZJvRqgQE3TqYko8gR-i7BOZGuumFAt_sLzGTGO4mN07uGR1d2P158y0LSGVMm968IMsIFC4e9E9RjJxF4G0LPD5zu4893IPSvsPOeBwbMsIdjTZ8U8JK-3t0Q/w150-h200/IMG_1581.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>After trying on the finished blouse and consulting with my Sisters, I decided to deepen the darts in the back of the blouse. I did this by a little more than 1/8" (1/4" total for each dart; 1/2" overall). This gave me a much shaplier looking back and made it feel less like a Boho top and more like a fitted blouse.<br /><br />I'm still not convinced 100% on the collar. It took a really good pressing to get it to hug my neck properly, but I was convinced enough to cut another in a beautiful 100% cotton poplin purchased at Fabric.com. I had hoped to have enough fabric left after cutting to make my own bias binding for the hems, but, sadly, I did not; purchased bias tape it will be. I'll add photos of the second blouse after I finish.<p></p><p>Thanks for reading!</p><p>Paula</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjRr15AuZRb_3gCAv_cY17YzixhnA_-w92krRMjAYcbr7daCpUa3ixhHeQsvzM9o-5ILmTLy4JcjvGkcINJtiJ3c6SYREcYTH_8SS2IgFmhyphenhyphengu3KwMMc28H01IeGhtvHepXdZJNWQOFUI/s2048/IMG_1572.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1548" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjRr15AuZRb_3gCAv_cY17YzixhnA_-w92krRMjAYcbr7daCpUa3ixhHeQsvzM9o-5ILmTLy4JcjvGkcINJtiJ3c6SYREcYTH_8SS2IgFmhyphenhyphengu3KwMMc28H01IeGhtvHepXdZJNWQOFUI/s320/IMG_1572.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgogdVjCKLX8BSK-Aj1YoCNYjHq5Nc9xyvljwFdUpgy9uTV38IN_HWxkeODUa91UciWvXz3yeWItu3yuRwa9Av7-9PbXwQ8srrWJmcYjmdFEPBY4nal9_rHxV-wssZR8kXuptnYTVV5RNk/s2048/IMG_1582.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgogdVjCKLX8BSK-Aj1YoCNYjHq5Nc9xyvljwFdUpgy9uTV38IN_HWxkeODUa91UciWvXz3yeWItu3yuRwa9Av7-9PbXwQ8srrWJmcYjmdFEPBY4nal9_rHxV-wssZR8kXuptnYTVV5RNk/s320/IMG_1582.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBK8c_eKuJe6ryhcHuDB4SFZTwzyQhExWJdQGEnMO8Dsl8LQNVzVfsakVgz_lbR0MXLp1vF2b-ACjGLwpxPoI-5U4qHf50UE8iyX5mx0VOtf5AUykqcoojWoGJL7KihEwRLLlRQJ25ycM/s2048/IMG_1563.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBK8c_eKuJe6ryhcHuDB4SFZTwzyQhExWJdQGEnMO8Dsl8LQNVzVfsakVgz_lbR0MXLp1vF2b-ACjGLwpxPoI-5U4qHf50UE8iyX5mx0VOtf5AUykqcoojWoGJL7KihEwRLLlRQJ25ycM/s320/IMG_1563.jpg" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidge9watXOaiwsPL3Gf-hKQtZMM6TfY33Lyu4pa0m4A_PSIvI-E-pcwxRGiRGDP0Y8GHL8525k8tLIlYuFO2XPuBQLZNXxEx7sIoeP2FWJdYNUu1OeXZMgb-Mhd9338ULFpV7XUvX1ZvU/s2048/IMG_1570.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidge9watXOaiwsPL3Gf-hKQtZMM6TfY33Lyu4pa0m4A_PSIvI-E-pcwxRGiRGDP0Y8GHL8525k8tLIlYuFO2XPuBQLZNXxEx7sIoeP2FWJdYNUu1OeXZMgb-Mhd9338ULFpV7XUvX1ZvU/s320/IMG_1570.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo taken prior to deepening the back darts.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>*Silhouette patterns are sized by finished garment measurement, not by body measurements. The owner/designer, Peggy Sagers, says to choose your size based on a similar garment you already own that fits you well, or, if you don't own one, to try on clothes at a store until you find a well-fitting garment, then measure that one. Okay, so I guessed. To put you in the ball park, I'm going to give you my measurements so you can compare them to the garment measurements and look at the ease of the garment in my photos.<br /><br />My measurements...<br />Bust: 36.5<br />Waist: 31.5<br />Hips: 38.5<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnp4aaXOirHdeZxWH7ypQ_WjK6uSSERV8TQs726lZ9jDXoJDzhyzS2VuE5N68TBroClD64NdzCTBvYfPxnhygA6nFns8dx8V7F0RKri-sV4xJcWGakFaK2iBG2TzT_3U-vodVcE_wCqqQ/s485/600_back.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="485" data-original-width="400" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnp4aaXOirHdeZxWH7ypQ_WjK6uSSERV8TQs726lZ9jDXoJDzhyzS2VuE5N68TBroClD64NdzCTBvYfPxnhygA6nFns8dx8V7F0RKri-sV4xJcWGakFaK2iBG2TzT_3U-vodVcE_wCqqQ/w165-h200/600_back.jpg" width="165" /></a></div><br /></div>Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-8675653819199942032021-01-23T15:12:00.001-08:002021-01-23T15:12:26.274-08:00What Was I Thinking?<p>While I was <a href="https://sewconfused.blogspot.com/2021/01/a-slightly-upgraded-sewing-space.html" target="_blank">tidying up the sewing space</a>, I found a list of patterns-to-buy I had compiled a while back, I'm guessing early 2020. I each of them a second look and was surprised to find that most of them just weren't that interesting.<br /><br /><a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/m7254" target="_blank">McCall's 7254</a></p><p>A perfectly nice pattern, but not sure if it's something I'd wear. However, I see that today it's on sale for $3.99, which might make it worth buying and holding onto while I decide.</p><p><a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/m7575" target="_blank">McCall's 7575</a></p><p>A fine pattern, but I can't for the life of me figure out what it was about it that caught my eye over the hundreds of other blouse patterns that are available.</p><p><a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/pdm7325" target="_blank">McCall's 7325</a></p><p>Maybe if I were looking to make a nightgown.</p><p><a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/b6026" target="_blank">Butterick 6026</a></p><p>Again, nice, but I would never wear this. Never.<br /></p><p><a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/b6070" target="_blank">Butterick 6070</a></p><p>Another blouse. Have I mentioned that I can't recall the last time I wore a blouse?</p><p><a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/tops--vests/simplicity-pattern-8445-misses-vintage-blouses-and-cummerbund/" target="_blank">Simplicity 8445</a></p><p>And yet another cute blouse that's not my actual style. Also, it's a blouse. Even if I wore blouses every day, how many actual blouse patterns would I need?</p><p><a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/v1050" target="_blank">Vogue 1050</a></p><p>Those of you who know me (I'm looking at you, Sewing Sisters) are probably laughing your heads off. You would have known right off the bat that I would never, ever in a million-bazillion years wear these pants.</p><p>So out of this list, there's one that I might buy simply because it's on sale and another I could possible use to make a nightgown. Other than that...well, who knows what I was thinking. From now on I'm going to employ a cooling off period before I buy new patterns. Either that or get more comfortable with my own aesthetic, rather than thinking I <i>should</i> wear this or that.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKuzOAkRCw_oEtHu7TUG2LKbXfwKBBXXDCXOkvlYno0sEJJJg1-H0FNoIVc9r4-Y9Q2WHMbYvB7aNLVL6bVcSAzHsOgYnHJIfSk0ru7Wjtmf-9tUsPTvoWxqjtLkznY6_LbEfCgAJUyQ0/s660/B6026_07__26480.1579913935.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="480" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKuzOAkRCw_oEtHu7TUG2LKbXfwKBBXXDCXOkvlYno0sEJJJg1-H0FNoIVc9r4-Y9Q2WHMbYvB7aNLVL6bVcSAzHsOgYnHJIfSk0ru7Wjtmf-9tUsPTvoWxqjtLkznY6_LbEfCgAJUyQ0/w146-h200/B6026_07__26480.1579913935.webp" width="146" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butterick 6026</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgJpV0YBQYBeDT6rIctj-AyhrDwARrITj5JIfUjVxvEIRj-BJFIGgLRFWVTGUHTtVQvgqYYUx39Buv53YvQC5vYOrwh4hp-IecjohQXd2_JqlZbl_RHdX9V4Gvku5EHnpF6j-DBpg8DA/s660/B6070_01__57518.1579914512.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="480" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgJpV0YBQYBeDT6rIctj-AyhrDwARrITj5JIfUjVxvEIRj-BJFIGgLRFWVTGUHTtVQvgqYYUx39Buv53YvQC5vYOrwh4hp-IecjohQXd2_JqlZbl_RHdX9V4Gvku5EHnpF6j-DBpg8DA/w146-h200/B6070_01__57518.1579914512.webp" width="146" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butterick 6070</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFHPCLDHdgx-BDiW1DyMHCiYKRIOnWki7WOdVeTtTpuDgyCre4kNfEpwhq96ArXMYTH_WHQ1rwbFvnmLVQ8h96R6RwIRl1x0AJWX8UxwHDbX3X4075YkpofxIm19jA25GRN95coxhYhIE/s660/M7254_03__04928.1579942454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="480" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFHPCLDHdgx-BDiW1DyMHCiYKRIOnWki7WOdVeTtTpuDgyCre4kNfEpwhq96ArXMYTH_WHQ1rwbFvnmLVQ8h96R6RwIRl1x0AJWX8UxwHDbX3X4075YkpofxIm19jA25GRN95coxhYhIE/w146-h200/M7254_03__04928.1579942454.jpg" width="146" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's 7254</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMl_dAa8vY1PeRaiFvpSDSKjQz_x8R8PSZWnoUKIdejoT_FLp7rR2jWMrJF1_s0Jw7zW9WYWkSSD9n89K1alpiy00K3stLwqRPdJZNkNdAKBXZj5k2D88_inGNjJyFskG3Kq2lqfndUAs/s660/M7325_01__19837.1579953820.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="480" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMl_dAa8vY1PeRaiFvpSDSKjQz_x8R8PSZWnoUKIdejoT_FLp7rR2jWMrJF1_s0Jw7zW9WYWkSSD9n89K1alpiy00K3stLwqRPdJZNkNdAKBXZj5k2D88_inGNjJyFskG3Kq2lqfndUAs/w146-h200/M7325_01__19837.1579953820.jpg" width="146" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's 7325</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7woU0UxaA3NqWQWgSyr3-Hw7rYcSIuQdgH2mJ9xW7LdQuNCssEsY8IWZv5CQhHAvGK9Gap7KimtaVl_GYdTPt4kANP2ZvZo9E2BavpnDygydaSDdnv4BUnIHFHtRuSXVEWK7G9ImqMZQ/s660/M7575_01__38977.1579961657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="480" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7woU0UxaA3NqWQWgSyr3-Hw7rYcSIuQdgH2mJ9xW7LdQuNCssEsY8IWZv5CQhHAvGK9Gap7KimtaVl_GYdTPt4kANP2ZvZo9E2BavpnDygydaSDdnv4BUnIHFHtRuSXVEWK7G9ImqMZQ/w146-h200/M7575_01__38977.1579961657.jpg" width="146" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's 7575</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nMq20qfPCcI5Uxflso2McdodPFrxgTg9hQ_-xWh41Hlgbl3ZMxI-0BPDdV3vT_goqXwwCjMImhogjWUrrncr36onJprcxPTkVtFUjSY83uZt5GEuQLhzgttYCzXozsEyT8wVlw58dwY/s660/V1050_01__14196.1579942828.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="480" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nMq20qfPCcI5Uxflso2McdodPFrxgTg9hQ_-xWh41Hlgbl3ZMxI-0BPDdV3vT_goqXwwCjMImhogjWUrrncr36onJprcxPTkVtFUjSY83uZt5GEuQLhzgttYCzXozsEyT8wVlw58dwY/w146-h200/V1050_01__14196.1579942828.webp" width="146" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 1050</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifgeU4TPzZjzR7lE52FGBRLHXXrnLID_ZzIXc6I33FP2RbjHxbwnGhyNrXiLRd9pKVjxE6KaH31Q9fUIYOKxidUeBdlcSUfYxd2nAgs1KLnNLXiie6IBNdXDkmeJT-CePhqB-r3WV5rFQ/s500/simplicity-vintage-blouse-cummerbund-miss-pattern-8445-av1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifgeU4TPzZjzR7lE52FGBRLHXXrnLID_ZzIXc6I33FP2RbjHxbwnGhyNrXiLRd9pKVjxE6KaH31Q9fUIYOKxidUeBdlcSUfYxd2nAgs1KLnNLXiie6IBNdXDkmeJT-CePhqB-r3WV5rFQ/w200-h200/simplicity-vintage-blouse-cummerbund-miss-pattern-8445-av1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simplicity 8445</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p>Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-67438083108396247322021-01-22T12:09:00.029-08:002021-01-23T12:28:01.542-08:00A Slightly Upgraded Sewing Space<p> We have two homes and I divide my time between them, requiring that I have a sewing area in each. At our home in Grand Coulee, Washington, I have an entire room to myself. At our home in Snohomish, Washington, I'm afraid I'm not quite as lucky.<br /><br />Here I have a corner of what we call "the dog room." Yes, that tells you everything you need to know about the room. It's dominated by two 48" L x 31" W x 32" H dog crates. I get a corner. Not being a naturally neat person, my corner was - how can I say this nicely - an abysmal mess. There was so much piled on the floor that I couldn't even sit at the desk serving as my sewing table. And the small bit of fabric storage that I have there was completely inaccessible. This is why there are no "before" photos; they would have been too embarrassing to post.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3h5uuF8030qAA0-omHet7uG-nljOicEgWxA5SGQKXlRUpbvPKW1uZVeUmckXWlU7fhiNGdcxzjuY0auqHdwiF0UbxjL_CFkxCpFzlAG2YB9N7IGHOmVCXansJaLjf4_9Qcgdncs1pnCQ/s2048/20210118_235343239_iOS.heic" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3h5uuF8030qAA0-omHet7uG-nljOicEgWxA5SGQKXlRUpbvPKW1uZVeUmckXWlU7fhiNGdcxzjuY0auqHdwiF0UbxjL_CFkxCpFzlAG2YB9N7IGHOmVCXansJaLjf4_9Qcgdncs1pnCQ/s320/20210118_235343239_iOS.heic" width="320" /></a></p>So off to Costco I went and came back with a 6' folding table, which I placed at right angles to the desk. The table is an inch or two higher than the desk, so I don't get an uninterrupted work surface, but it's something I can work with. I'm using the desk top only for storage, so it's not an issue.<div><br /></div><div>Getting back to those dog crates...I have a plan to cover the top of one with plywood and use it as a cutting table. I'm short with short legs, so at 32", it's just about the right height, and certainly better at my age that cutting on the floor.<br /><br />Here's something funny that happened while I was sorting through my mess. I found this scrap of paper. Thankfully I remembered that this was the correct angle for the center front seam on a v-neck t-shirt I made using Silhouette Patterns #195, Sweater Set, as a base, but what the heck does "BLUE" mean?<br /><br /><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjieQ5IMFhfq4irTcFye60JxmU-5zNkMKftNdNGS_t_PKb0egTnnvsk8ycOi_djTwy7p_jXdge08DiPSpAi3hFD0wU-lDPm1KT8Sn9lpqtLQoclEpiWPu9649tHNCUEVkCY9RUlngdQ_hc/s2641/20210119_020810737_iOS.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1191" data-original-width="2641" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjieQ5IMFhfq4irTcFye60JxmU-5zNkMKftNdNGS_t_PKb0egTnnvsk8ycOi_djTwy7p_jXdge08DiPSpAi3hFD0wU-lDPm1KT8Sn9lpqtLQoclEpiWPu9649tHNCUEVkCY9RUlngdQ_hc/s320/20210119_020810737_iOS.heic" width="320" /></a></div><br />Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-17357886275820050492020-09-28T12:20:00.001-07:002020-09-28T12:20:38.080-07:00I Can't Believe I Made This<div class="separator"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="423" data-original-width="624" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHQExxtbZzNr5yQgzo1LYAnU2PcnYQ5c6xbCKe3bzl6p7-l84skFJhmB2B2Al0bQq2Mtgeknf16TXVqOcQUtwvPLwLmrdZmHJUVsxJLNa4XWXxOntSKqrrigx2Cgwim3adNdxdKfvG1YM/s320/Screenshot+%2528203%2529.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Photo Credit: Embroidery Library</i></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXfnZfgd4LAwqEW1awVXhYALEUcM1nHK-bh8SiGaA2_n5p_vQko44DlJC9UvnFPfDtV5S5c5hO7ge-BzLlT-_E8cULULusgUJ0GKuVYNOHcb_EFBNXn80y0kKK55rbapnXHUKHyH4ZiQQ/s2048/20200928_105717_edit.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXfnZfgd4LAwqEW1awVXhYALEUcM1nHK-bh8SiGaA2_n5p_vQko44DlJC9UvnFPfDtV5S5c5hO7ge-BzLlT-_E8cULULusgUJ0GKuVYNOHcb_EFBNXn80y0kKK55rbapnXHUKHyH4ZiQQ/s2048/20200928_105717_edit.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXfnZfgd4LAwqEW1awVXhYALEUcM1nHK-bh8SiGaA2_n5p_vQko44DlJC9UvnFPfDtV5S5c5hO7ge-BzLlT-_E8cULULusgUJ0GKuVYNOHcb_EFBNXn80y0kKK55rbapnXHUKHyH4ZiQQ/s2048/20200928_105717_edit.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div></div><p style="text-align: left;">It broke three needles and it almost broke me, but I persevered and was victorious. </p><p style="text-align: left;">Do you know those thousands of emails you get from fabric vendors, peddlers of embroidery designs and, of course, Wawak? The ones that you mostly delete before opening unless you have a pile of cash on hand begging to be spent. Yeah, those.</p>I happened to open one the other day from <a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/1/#">Embroidery Library</a> (my favorite online retailer of machine embroidery designs) and saw a project that seemed so far-fetched, so out of the realm of what was possible on a home sewing machine that I knew I would have to try it: <a href="https://www.blogger.com/u/1/#">embroidered rope baskets</a>.<div><br />I'm not going give detailed instructions on the process here, because I am linking to them instead because <a href="https://www.emblibrary.com/EL/ELProjects/Projects.aspx?productid=PR2261" target="_blank">Embroidery Library's instructions</a> are excellent and the photos they have included are far better than what I could hope to provide with my cell phone and no tripod. Rather, I'll outline the issues I faced and some tips for you to use when you try this. Because you will try it.<br /><br />I followed EL's instructions exactly, except that I didn't have spray adhesive on hand. This is used to adhere the flat coil of the bottom of the basket to the stabilizer before you hand stitch the coil to the stabilizer. I skipped this step and proceeded directly to stitching the coil to the stabilizer. This may have led to the only real issue I faced while stitching out the embroidery...needle breakage.<br /><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1212" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIEp6uzznBY7G8NFpZd4go8NdWHQquzjR_Jo9ghSjvA2fqz6Msp-lpZ-5wW0rFkmKwRA8BjWt129VcmdH0kBLTe1a7802W09ZboUS5PNiV_Y2TQ6xhkgX3u1TN8nd3BD6f9MiZL8r99sQ/s320/20200928_105717_edit.jpg" /></div>I'm not sure if it was due to the lack of adhesive or the design being too dense or what, but the bottom of my basket, which was perfectly flat when I started, "bubbled" up in unstitched sections. Then, when the embroidery moved into the bubbled areas, the needle would break. And break And break.</div><div><br /></div><div>I finally figured out that I needed to take the frame off the machine as the bottom distorted and press the bubbled sections flat before proceeding. After the first few colors, I did this at every color change. I'm not sure if the adhesive would be strong enough to prevent this. I'll try it on my next basket and see what happens.</div><div><br />I'm also not 100% satisfied with my color choices. I'll chalk that up to being an inexperienced embroiderer. If I had used all the information available to me on the screen, I could have made better color choices. Specifically, I'm referring to the small box highlighted here that shows what part of the design, exactly, will be stitched with the current color. It was only after I had stitched several colors that I noticed this and realized just how useful the information was.<br /><br /></div><div>I also need to work on my basket making skills. When I first started building up the sides, it seemed as though the basket would be very, very shallow. I overcompensated and ended up with the top of my basket being a little too tight. And, sadly, when you hold the basket up to the light, you can see daylight in some places coming through between the layers of the rope coil. Just a little, but still.<br /><br />Tips and Observations <br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>It is extremely difficult to stitch the coil when it's less than about 2-1/2" in diameter. Go slowly and keep the "line" between the coil and the free end of the rope lined up with the center of your presser foot. </li><li>I found that I needed to add a second row of zigzag stitching perpendicular to the first line stitched across the initial coil to begin the basket.</li><li>I used a 4 mm wide zigzag to stitch the coil. The instructions call for 1/8", which converts to about 3 mm. I'll do this on my next basket, now that I'm more confident with the process. 4mm is fine, but probably more visible than you really want.</li><li>If the bottom coil of your basket becomes "bubbled as the embroidery stitches out, remove the frame from the machine and press the bottom flat. I a pressing cloth and steam.</li><li>To avoid being able to see daylight through the sides of your basket, hold the free end of the rope very snugly against the coil as you're stitching. This is easier to do when stitching the flat coil than when building up the sides of the basket.</li><li>It's also quite difficult to stitch the first few rounds as you begin to build up the sides of the basket. The instructions tell you to "Place your and under the base and tilt it up. Be careful but keep your hand as close as possible to the foot of the machine." I found that the basket pushed my hand away from the foot. I think I may have been trying to place my hand too close to the foot.</li></ul><div>And here is my finished product. It measures 9" across, 3" tall, and used approximately 79 feet of cotton clothesline. The embroidery design is <a href="https://www.emblibrary.com/EL/Products.aspx?Catalog=Emblibrary&ProductID=M25468" target="_blank">Lavender Blooms Hummingbird</a> from Embroidery Library. The entire project was stitched with my new-to-me Brother Dream Machine.<br /><br />I'm embarrassed to say I didn't really keep track of how long it took me to make this, but I think it was somewhere under five hours. The design itself required an hour of stitching time, not counting thread changes and taking the hoop in and out for pressing, so I would say the lion's share of the time was taken up with the embroidery.<br /><br /></div></div><div>Overall, I'm extremely pleased with my results, even though my basket is a little lumpy and you can see some daylight through the sides. I'm calling it a "wearable muslin" and it's sitting on a side table in my living room as I type this. This project is well within reach of even beginning sewers and machine embroiderers, so what do you think? Does this look like something you'll "have" to try?</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy5s6esSgVDXQEA_wW6r4gLOo6hdn3gQAgzAc0mH_rJGNmB_OSwWrQhyphenhyphenTkS6hPl2jwPlsEHgmXQesw0NC_cDIQxSUlQhfiRfsyvsNOCb3F2326qEzjX9XSs2IYMy8z4cQxQgmxDfl6aw4/s1832/20200928_075133_edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1831" data-original-width="1832" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy5s6esSgVDXQEA_wW6r4gLOo6hdn3gQAgzAc0mH_rJGNmB_OSwWrQhyphenhyphenTkS6hPl2jwPlsEHgmXQesw0NC_cDIQxSUlQhfiRfsyvsNOCb3F2326qEzjX9XSs2IYMy8z4cQxQgmxDfl6aw4/s320/20200928_075133_edit.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTRrZZ8OSrQ0sYLYz2zYdCTvK6TAE3PWKosFjonH0S8IXaSRaCqVkR1mzKkibvuulukYI2QPDpGBOTgyedsfX1rfzYBGYeAQl2GSdScpqRqagf0-GBns3Ras_UanqneQj7kByaeplen-4/s1836/20200928_075217_edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1836" data-original-width="1836" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTRrZZ8OSrQ0sYLYz2zYdCTvK6TAE3PWKosFjonH0S8IXaSRaCqVkR1mzKkibvuulukYI2QPDpGBOTgyedsfX1rfzYBGYeAQl2GSdScpqRqagf0-GBns3Ras_UanqneQj7kByaeplen-4/s320/20200928_075217_edit.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div>Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-44269930417291537282019-03-04T22:43:00.002-08:002019-03-04T22:43:57.510-08:00Another T-Shirt<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIXgj-dPH46f0PVZci3pRMQ5hqFRgsFSu5Vl16GAuQDf96nrpCkbYBHOlaKnxP-mFoqRqDWF6nrD5gpSXBpRj544RdgHPuC6WxL3cCxY3secRN71vf_AxXThF_J0mAqoGzWZ2yxszWd_o/s1600/20190131_195231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1253" data-original-width="1005" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIXgj-dPH46f0PVZci3pRMQ5hqFRgsFSu5Vl16GAuQDf96nrpCkbYBHOlaKnxP-mFoqRqDWF6nrD5gpSXBpRj544RdgHPuC6WxL3cCxY3secRN71vf_AxXThF_J0mAqoGzWZ2yxszWd_o/s200/20190131_195231.jpg" width="160" /></a>So, hey, now that I have a TNT t-shirt pattern, I can just whip one out whenever I want, like the fast sewists do.<br />
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I got the idea for this off of one of Peggy Sagers' <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAPlyUSWNRA" target="_blank">YouTube videos</a>. (Peggy's videos should be designated as a national treasure. Subscribe to her <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/SilhouettePeeps/featured" target="_blank">channel</a>. Seriously. Do it right now.) I'm not a huge fan of cut-ion sleeves, so I opted to make mine with set-in sleeves, but I still think it turned out really cute.<br />
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Peggy says in the video that this is "quick." It may have been quick for her, but it took me the greater part of an afternoon (four hours) to get my pattern ready. So keep that in mind.<br />
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To be honest, the top reminds me a little bit of the Frank Gorshin Star Trek character. Are you old enough - or enough of a Trekkie - to know what I'm talking about? If you are, leave a comment below. If you aren't, there's a clue at the end of the post.<br />
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Making this top required some slicing and dicing of the basic #195 pattern and, as I said above, that took me most of the afternoon and well into the evening. Because I'm spatially challenged, I carefully held each pattern piece up to my body to make sure that, when cut, each piece would be cut of the correct fabric for so that I'd end up with the proper effect. This led to notes on each piece, like, "Left back...cut one with this side up" and "Right front...cut one with this side up."<br />
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Because the sleeve pattern didn't require any modifications, I made notes on both sides: "This side up for left sleeve" and "This side up for right sleeve." I held the pattern piece up to my body on both sides to make sure I was getting it right. Way to be thorough! Go me!<br />
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<i>Unfortunately</i>, I still got the sleeves wrong. <i>Fortunately</i>, the sleeves for this pattern seem to be completely symmetrical so I just turned them around and it worked out. I'm still wondering, though, what's a spatially challenged person to do? How can I ever aspire to doing these sorts of things right the first time?<br />
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Existential questions aside, once the I had the pattern pieces ready, the t-shirt sewed up quickly. I finished the neckline, sleeves, and hem with black foldover elastic. I like it around the neck. but I'm going to cut it off the sleeves and hem and coverstitch them instead. I just feel like the elastic on sleeves and hem gives a little too much of an activewear vibe.<br />
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I did cut the body pieces a little larger than I did for the <a href="http://sewconfused.blogspot.com/2019/01/a-new-tnt-pattern.html" target="_blank">teal t-shirt</a>. This is because both fabrics for this shirt are lycra blends; the teal tee is cotton/rayon interlock. I was wary of the lycra fabrics being too clingy, so I wanted more ease.<br />
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The only other thing I have to say about this is that the fabrics are a little mismatched. The houndstooth check print has a little more body, and the black is slightly thinner, and decidedly softer and more drapey than the print. But they joined together without any puckering and seem to be getting along rather well so...I'm happy.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frank Gorshin as Bele, "Let That Be Your Last Battlefield"</td></tr>
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Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-34616377628437145622019-01-31T10:23:00.000-08:002019-01-31T10:26:43.997-08:00Silhouette Patterns Fitting Trifecta Tour, Part 2<br />
I was lucky enough to be able to attend the Seattle event of the Fitting Trifecta Tour with Peggy Sagers of <a href="http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/" target="_blank">Silhouette Patterns</a> on January 25 and 26th, 2019 in Seatac, Washington. Peggy travels the country, teaching women how to make the clothes they sew fit properly on their bodies, with as little fuss as possible.<br />
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My notes from the workshop follow. I didn't take notes at the workshop; these are written from memory so there may be a few gaps.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Saturday Morning</b></span><br />
During the Saturday morning workshop, we fitted Silhouette #3400, Three-Piece Yoga Pant. For this session, I was lucky enough to be Peggy's fitting model. What a bonus to be fitted by the expert!<br />
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Peggy started off by talking about LCD and how it relates to pants. She discussed what she thinks is a point of confusion: What is normally called "crotch depth" is actually a length measurement, and what is commonly called "crotch length" is a depth measurement.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Fitting the Pants</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><u>L</u>ength</b></span><br />
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Do you like where the crotch is hitting you? If not, pull the pants up or down until you do. NO SCOOPING or otherwise changing the crotch curve. What a revelation! We've been conditioned to think that waist seam of the pattern is sacrosanct and must be left unaltered at all costs. Instead, we go through muslin after muslin, fiddling with the crotch curve to the point where it probably would have been easier to draft the pattern ourselves. There was literally no one in the room for whom the crotch couldn't be made right simply by moving the pants up or down, and there were 30 to 40 women of all different shapes and sizes.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><u>C</u>ircumference</b></span><br />
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Do you feel comfortable in the pants? Are they too tight or too loose? Small adjustments to the circumference of the waist and hips are taken at the side seams. If there is a lot to take in or let out, consider starting with a different size.<br />
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The circumference of the legs is taken only from the side seams above the knee, then equally from the side seam and inseam below the knee.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><u>D</u>epth</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I needed all three corrections.<br />
Also, this back view is horrifying.</td></tr>
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Start on the back of the pants. Is there droopiness under the tush? We nicknamed this problem "cowl back." This is addressed with a horizontal dart taken at the fullest part of the seat, starting in the middle and tapering to nothing at the side seams. This must be addressed before anything else.<br />
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Someone asked if this would have the effect of making the crotch too tight. Peggy responded with a visual that included a ruler and a tape measure. I didn't take photos (of course) so I'll try to explain it.<br />
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Imagine, if you will, a ruler. The top of the rule is the waist. An arbitrary point halfway down the ruler is the crotch line. The tape measure is held in place at the waist and crotch line, with enough slack between the two points to curve out and approximate the shape of someone's bottom. Peggy then demonstrated how she could fold a tuck into the slack of the tape measure without moving the crotch line. Question answered.<br />
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After taking the dart at the hipline, there may still be horizontal drag lines below the seat. These are addressed at the crotch line by taking a dart that starts at the inseam and tapers to nothing at the side seam. A corresponding dart needs to be taken on the front of the leg.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRi39I4Ew3JfoGXcMtFUZYp3Jd7xMknov-X8qUAqlg4Fp73oe1FxaM3ikp40AodpKscddcxIy_4F7TRh700v8vOymbxPs6WL6Siw9O0sPkbxoUyE1Isu5cCWCn6cIxzl5h8lcY4F_2Ps0/s1600/20190126_101627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRi39I4Ew3JfoGXcMtFUZYp3Jd7xMknov-X8qUAqlg4Fp73oe1FxaM3ikp40AodpKscddcxIy_4F7TRh700v8vOymbxPs6WL6Siw9O0sPkbxoUyE1Isu5cCWCn6cIxzl5h8lcY4F_2Ps0/s320/20190126_101627.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corresponding darts on front leg at<br />
crotch and knee. Cat whiskers<br />
pinned out at center front.</td></tr>
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There may be still more drag lines lower down on the leg. These are generally caused because the pants are hanging up on the calves. To eliminate these, a dart is taken just above the knee, starting at the side seam and tapering to nothing at the inseam. Again, a corresponding dart must be taken on the front of the leg.<br />
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Then we looked at the front of the pants. Horizontal wrinkles or cat whiskers are pinned out in a dart that starts at the center front seam and tapers to nothing at the side seam.<br />
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The alterations made on the muslin can be transferred to your flat pattern, or you can use the muslin as your pattern.<br />
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After everyone was fitted, she spent some time talking about how hard it can be to let go of old ideas about fitting (she specifically mentioned scooping the crotch curve) and reiterated that it really is as simple as her method makes it seem.<br />
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I'll be making a pair of altered yoga pants soon and will have a post here. I'm still unconvinced that knit pants are going to be a good look for me; I felt naked and exposed with them on, but I will, at least, be able to wear them around the house. I <i>may</i> be able to wear them in public if made in a very heavy ponte knit.<br />
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<br />Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-49160619357327851172019-01-30T14:30:00.001-08:002019-01-30T15:28:25.501-08:00A New TNT Pattern!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I put the fitting know-how I learned <a href="http://sewconfused.blogspot.com/2019/01/silhouette-patterns-fitting-trifecta.html" target="_blank">here</a> to work and made a t-shirt using Silhouette Patterns #195, Sweater Set.<br />
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I used a 60/40 Cotton/Rayon blend purchased a Joann. Based on my experience at the workshop, I again cut a size two, then made two adjustments to my flat pattern. I took a deeper dart at the shoulder seam, removing 5/16" at the shoulder point and tapering to nothing at the neck edge. I also made a swayback adjustment by means of a fisheye dart just above my waist. I slashed my pattern tissue from center back to side seam (not the cutting line!), then overlapped the cut edges at the center back by 3/4", tapering to nothing at the side seam.<br />
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And rather than making a shell, I added 3/4 length sleeves.<br />
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I am really pleased with the results, but there are two changes I want to make before sewing this again. First, I want to shorten the darts by, maybe, 3/8". They do end within the bust circle, but I would prefer it if they didn't come up quite so far. Second, I'll length the top by about 2". It's wearable, but I'll be more comfortable with the additional length.<br />
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The pattern instructions have you finish the neck edge by folding the seam allowance under and topstitching. Instead, I added a neck binding, following the instructions in this excellent <a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/10/27/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits" target="_blank">video</a> by Sarah Veblen.<br />
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This top represents some milestone moments for me. First, it's the first knit garment I have made for myself. Second...I USED MY SERGER. Okay, I basted it together on my sewing machine first, but still. And I used the cover stitch feature of my serger around the neck edge and for hemming.<br />
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Before I attended the fitting workshop, I was skeptical about adding darts to a t-shirt, but let me tell you...I AM A BELIEVER. The fit is amazing, and if you made the tee up in a print, no one would ever see the darts. I'm super excited to have a TNT t-shirt pattern. Finding one has been on my sewing to-do list and I'm happy to be able to check it off.<br />
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<br />Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-12426899381536814572019-01-27T12:46:00.000-08:002019-01-31T09:46:06.896-08:00Silhouette Patterns Fitting Trifecta Tour, Part 1I was lucky enough to be able to attend the Seattle event of the Fitting Trifecta Tour with Peggy Sagers of <a href="http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/" target="_blank">Silhouette Patterns</a> on January 25 and 26th, 2019 in Seatac, Washington. Peggy travels the country, teaching women how to make the clothes they sew fit properly on their bodies, with as little fuss as possible.<br />
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My notes from the workshop follow. I didn't take notes at the workshop; these are written from memory so there may be a few gaps.<br />
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Friday Evening</span><br />
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The Friday evening workshop was to fit the shell from Silhouette Patterns #195, Sweater Set. Peggy started by talking about her approach to fitting, "LCD." L stands for length, C for circumference, and D for depth. When evaluating a garment, vertical drag lines indicate length issues, horizontal indicate circumference issues, and diagonal lines indicate depth issues. Adjustments are always worked in the same order...Length first, Circumference second, and Depth last.<br />
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Peggy demonstrated how these principles apply to the shell on a "fitting model" chosen from attendees.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>
Fitting the Shell</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><b><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u>L</u>ength</span></b><br />
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Do the darts end inside the bust circle? Do you like where they end? If the darts come up too far, remove a few stitches; if they don't come up far enough, add a few stitches.<br />
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The bust circle is an imaginary construct with the bust apex at it's center and ranges in size from 3" in diameter in the smaller sizes and and up to 5" or more, depending on the size of the garment. It is acceptable for darts to end at any point inside the circle, <i>but they must not extend past the bust apex. </i>Everyone in the workshop seemed to have different opinions on perfect dart placement, but as long as the darts end inside the circle, without extending past the bust apex, it's a matter of personal preference.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><u>C</u>ircumference</b></span><br />
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Does it feel comfortable? Is there adequate circumference? Look for horizontal drag lines to evaluate. Let out the side seams if necessary, or go to a bigger size. Is there too much circumference? Take in the side seams or try a smaller size.<br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u>D</u>epth</span></b><br />
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Is there gapping around the arm scye? This is corrected at the shoulder seam. Remember, the shoulder seam, an <i>angled</i> line, is a dart. Gapping is corrected by taking a deeper dart.<br />
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Question: After you take a deeper dart at the shoulder seam, how do you modify the sleeve to fit? Answer: No sleeve modifications are necessary, because you restore the original arm scye to connect the new shoulder point with the underarm seam.<br />
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Question: Do you take an equal amount all the way across the shoulder seam? Answer: No, you taper to nothing at the neck edge. If you take an equal amount all the way across, you've adjusted length, not depth.<br />
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High round back is a depth issue. Before you make this adjustment you must pass the three-question test. 1. Is the neck too high (i.e., choking you) in the front? 2. Are the shoulder seams pulling to the back? 3. Is the back neck too low? If you can't answer yes to all three questions, you do not need a high round back adjustment. The solution to the high round back issue is to slash the back from stitching line to stitching line (at or above...sorry, I don't remember exactly where to make the slash*) the shoulder blades, allowing the back to relax. The shoulder seams are now free to move forward, Next, a piece of fabric is added under the slash and pinned to the garment. The top of the slash must be pinned first.<br />
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The swayback adjustment is required if there is pooling above the waist in the back. The solution is to take a dart just above the waist, starting in the middle and tapering to nothing at the side seams. Be aware that pooling can also be caused when a garment is snug enough around the hips that it can't move freely up and down over the hips during movement. If you make a swayback adjustment and, afterwards, the back hem is raised in the middle, the swayback adjustment wasn't required. At this point, you have to decide if you wan't more circumference around the hips This is a personal decision.<br />
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Those are all the issues we discussed during the workshop. On thing that was striking was how many women (a large majority) had chosen a size that was too large, even many sizes too large. Think about this when choosing your size, and even when evaluating your muslin for circumference. Many of the women had to be told their tops were too large; they couldn't see it themselves.<br />
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Unfortunately, I don't have before and after photos of my shell because, honestly, it was really, really good right out of the envelope. My partner did make a tiny change to the shoulder seam and a swayback adjustment, but I didn't think to have her take photos of it. I was skeptical about the concept of having darts in knit tops, but I am a believer now. This fit of this shell is pretty fantastic, and on a print, the darts don't even show.<br />
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As I found out, being able to attend a fitting workshop with Peggy Sagers is a fantastic opportunity, but you don't have to feel left out if you can't attend one. Peggy has generously shared a huge amount of information, for free, on the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/SilhouettePeeps/videos" target="_blank">Silhouette Patterns YouTube channel</a>. You can see her line of patterns <a href="http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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<i>*My friend, Debi, who also attended the workshop says the slash for the high round back adjustment is taken just above the shoulder blades.</i><br />
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Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-36765328041556277102018-11-03T19:58:00.002-07:002018-11-03T19:58:46.141-07:00What the Heck?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyLEbK2hLx8XKjiHw_qg9WZJExeOm10iFD37ARb7OH5oxox-3BLS42mzGk9z5x1-kJ1bwqJvRAwgbGtkhhBZ6a0wtht5fOCGRyT4I_YGgeJIrBDcLDqqptnbJKG3nykS2rPFwbUtbnJnc/s1600/Screenshot+%252890%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="699" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyLEbK2hLx8XKjiHw_qg9WZJExeOm10iFD37ARb7OH5oxox-3BLS42mzGk9z5x1-kJ1bwqJvRAwgbGtkhhBZ6a0wtht5fOCGRyT4I_YGgeJIrBDcLDqqptnbJKG3nykS2rPFwbUtbnJnc/s320/Screenshot+%252890%2529.png" width="284" /></a>I was doing some online snoop shopping and I came across these "Side Zip Ponte Leggings" on a fairly major retailer's website. Okay, it was The Gap. <br /><br />I was picturing an invisible zipper, but nooooooo. All I could think of when I saw the picture was, "OMG, I would die of embarrassment if I put in a zipper that looked like that." They'd have to pay <i>me</i> to wear them.Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-91830835502199915632018-10-30T15:37:00.000-07:002018-10-30T15:37:46.355-07:00Lonely Garments Club<br />
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Who doesn't have a lonely garment? One that hangs in your closet and never gets worn because you just don't have the right thing to wear with it? <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/25258" target="_blank">I had just such a garment in my closet</a>, so when the "Lonely Garment Club" contest was announced on Pattern Review, I thought it would be a good time to make something to go with it.<br />
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When I first considered entering this contest, I had envisioned a midi-length skirt made out of the same linen/rayon blend I used for this skirt. Before I made my final decision, though, I consulted my good friend, <a href="http://sewconfused.blogspot.com/search/label/Croquis" target="_blank">Polly</a>, who told me that a midi-skirt might not be my best look. So I decided on a shorter skirt.<br /><br />The pattern I chose was Simplicity 2226, a skirt with contoured waistband, lapped zipper and optional tie belt in two lengths, available in Misses sizes 6 to 18. I made the shorter version (because I am short, not because I wanted a short skirt) and omitted the belt loops.<br />
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This is a Learn to Sew pattern and the instructions are extremely detailed with excellent illustrations for each construction step. For example, the instructions for the lapped zipper insertion include four detailed paragraphs with very clear illustrations for each paragraph.<br /><br />I chose a black linen/rayon blend that had been aging in my stash for at least ten years.<br />
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There are a couple of reasons I particularly like this pattern...first, it has huge, sturdy pockets. When I say huge and sturdy I mean they hang from the waistband and are easily large enough for a cell phone or a small dog. Second, it has gathers that add a nice fullness, but it is smooth over the hips.<br />
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I like this pattern a lot. It's well drafted and what I mean by that is that all the pieces fit together exactly as this spatially challenged individual would expect them to; there are no mysterious places where the seam lines don't quite line up and you have to guess whether you should east them together, chalk it up to poor cutting, or assume that your fabric has stretched.<br />
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Even so, I hit a few bumps along the way. After altering the waistband and assembling the skirt, when I tried it on, it was tooooooo big. I took the whole thing apart (so sad because my lapped zipper was p-e-r-f-e-c-t) and took the waistband in a total of two inches at the side seams; it was still too big! I'm still not sure if that was a drafting error on my part or if the fabric stretched that much.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPI8u4pZ0BBLwg98kIVNUFdTHXth6RYw2ldahHHBljyC5KrpleqtZ_WuNlWWwPUVysSt55X7XR_lTmp7CPfMdbuWCCNKfstDlFDYobHXHVaLZXc7Zwb5r7aOEWI3Nt6D9aYgITEsSOdSU/s1600/20181030_133425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="986" data-original-width="1600" height="123" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPI8u4pZ0BBLwg98kIVNUFdTHXth6RYw2ldahHHBljyC5KrpleqtZ_WuNlWWwPUVysSt55X7XR_lTmp7CPfMdbuWCCNKfstDlFDYobHXHVaLZXc7Zwb5r7aOEWI3Nt6D9aYgITEsSOdSU/s200/20181030_133425.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
So I re-re-drafted the waistband and re-cut. In addition to re-drafting, I also used a more stable quilting cotton for the facing. And I handled the waistband like it were made of the finest, most fragile silk. The resulting skirt fits as I intended it to, but in retrospect, I wish I had drafted the waistband to sit a little closer to my natural waist than I did. It literally can't fall of, but I feel like it's in imminent danger of falling of at any moment.<br /><br />I will make this skirt again, but with a re-re-re-drafted waistband. I have a fun border print set aside that will be great for casual wear. I highly recommend it for everyone, but especially for beginners.<br />
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<br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;" />Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-1630189468444621322018-10-23T20:18:00.002-07:002018-10-23T20:20:03.010-07:00Silhouette #418, Fisher's Pleated Blouse<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmoTIB8pEDk-fa2dXpB5Myiyio9JpgdMu96UvAy4nVOXJmpLojnldQxEGOKlkzPjNV27RjK4hOc8kHFtdY8-Vf03_58pmUGyeRs-_CFbKQnSdXVWvZejfstzCkJ-3vMrzC69sJBEGuGFM/s1600/20181023_094909.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1357" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmoTIB8pEDk-fa2dXpB5Myiyio9JpgdMu96UvAy4nVOXJmpLojnldQxEGOKlkzPjNV27RjK4hOc8kHFtdY8-Vf03_58pmUGyeRs-_CFbKQnSdXVWvZejfstzCkJ-3vMrzC69sJBEGuGFM/s320/20181023_094909.jpg" width="271" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">This was my first foray into Silhouette pattern. The blouse is described as:</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">"New from the Fall 2018 Eileen Fisher runway, this beautiful pleated front blouse is perfect on every shape and size. The neckline is finished with an easy bias binding, the cup sizing is built into the blouse at the side seam so every shape and size has been included. The pleat is stunning and gives the body a vertical line to thin visually. The sleeve is 3/4 length and finished with a narrow band with a button. This pattern is for woven fabrics but could also be done in a knit if using a knit sleeve substitution."</span></blockquote>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">I have had a string of wadders in recent weeks, so I desperately needed a win, and this pattern is a definite winner. It came to my attention while watching Peggy Sager's "Fall Fashion Forecast" video, where she was wearing the blouse. I went immediately to her website, ordered the pattern, then settled in to wait for it to arrive. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">In the meantime, I prepped my fabric, a black linen/rayon blend purchased at least decade ago at Joann. I don't remember what I was originally planning to do with it, but it must have been HUGE because I have yards and yards of this stuff. So I was willing to sacrifice some to the cause of making something that fit.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">Silhouette patterns are unique in their sizing. Each pattern includes size ranges 1 to 4 and 5W to 8W. The measurement range for each size represent the finished size of the garment, not body measurements. Needless to say, I was "confused" about what size I would need to make. When the pattern came, I started tracing off a size 3. Then, in a Facebook group dedicated to Silhouette patterns, I noticed that someone who looked around my size had made it up in a size 2 and it fit her nicely. So I retraced the pattern in the smaller size.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">After I traced the pattern, I prepped it for a tissue fitting. First, I drew in the stitching lines, reinforced them with Scotch tape, and pinned them together. Based on the tissue fitting, I lowered the bust point 3/4". I'm not convinced that was exactly right; 1" might be better, but it's certainly in the acceptable range. Then I narrowed the shoulders by, again, 3/4".</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">Then I started sewing!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">The instruction were easy to understand, even for this spatially-challenged individual. That being said, I didn't follow them exactly because I wasn't confident in my ability to execute them well. Instead, I fell back on some more traditional home sewing techniques. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">For example, the instructions had you sew both ends of the bias neck band, turn it right side out and press the seam allowances to the wrong side. You would then proceed to sandwich the seam allowance of the neck edge into the neck band and attach it with only a row of edge stitching. Yeah. That was not going to work for me, so I folded one long edge to the wrong side, then stitched the other side to the neck edge right sides together. Then I folded it to the wrong side and top stitched it.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">While this blouse started as a muslin for which I had vague hopes that it might turn out to be wearable, it turned out to be far more than that. The fit isn't perfect, but it's very wearable and I love it.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">I do plan to make it again. When I do I'll probably raise the vee according to the directions that Peggy helpfully included in the instructions. It's not that I don't like the vee because I do; it's every bit as slimming as Peggy said it would be. It's more that I would prefer it to be slightly different than the first one. I might also add a skosh more room at the bust; less than an inch, but I won't be sure until I have a chance to wear the blouse and maybe get some female feedback. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">As I said above, this was my first time making a Silhouette pattern and I am very pleased with the results. I'll be purchasing and making more.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">More photos. I know...black doesn't show any details. As Nina Garcia would say...not very editorial.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRj4UIR-MD1gbr_wI0_3fJDuf0Scnzp2-kTLMHYqNqiVlTBhyyCxee5o1HrxcaqddC2fEa8Br650W_xJRMwaQV2wXFduJCLDOHo7jLFFKzvD90kBQfI1EUfrz2lR6agUQ_DwQvWnsYSpM/s1600/20181023_094950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1325" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRj4UIR-MD1gbr_wI0_3fJDuf0Scnzp2-kTLMHYqNqiVlTBhyyCxee5o1HrxcaqddC2fEa8Br650W_xJRMwaQV2wXFduJCLDOHo7jLFFKzvD90kBQfI1EUfrz2lR6agUQ_DwQvWnsYSpM/s320/20181023_094950.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvnb2GaLeqprxB9gSwxx-esRpR3rM4C24aypvDCJoLpb0WJl2ZyrMv2Vxfj4DcJg9F0rqa8UKwwxUO6I6zCHIQKl6wVZoNaNCkHMyRLUqmIDeVzRlO1mEFsjwnKRt03PxtODupHEo1VxI/s1600/20181023_095643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1002" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvnb2GaLeqprxB9gSwxx-esRpR3rM4C24aypvDCJoLpb0WJl2ZyrMv2Vxfj4DcJg9F0rqa8UKwwxUO6I6zCHIQKl6wVZoNaNCkHMyRLUqmIDeVzRlO1mEFsjwnKRt03PxtODupHEo1VxI/s320/20181023_095643.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;"><br /><br /></span>Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-45951210752233093002018-02-16T16:02:00.002-08:002021-04-24T09:00:16.817-07:00Old Jeans, How Do I Love Thee?<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiatcvj1T9oQ2ycV2PDCykJXfVMYXlrvTBMMLC4-Cm_DOe86UBqRCgrC40UQeGCKfRPoqFBqvt6T0Fd2n-BB5b0ya_aoA2WzHuvmDmafsoPr7_1IYu8LBgW5BJ2oho9qnNBgtw27BgLpdI/s1600/jeans+collage.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiatcvj1T9oQ2ycV2PDCykJXfVMYXlrvTBMMLC4-Cm_DOe86UBqRCgrC40UQeGCKfRPoqFBqvt6T0Fd2n-BB5b0ya_aoA2WzHuvmDmafsoPr7_1IYu8LBgW5BJ2oho9qnNBgtw27BgLpdI/s200/jeans+collage.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Check out that embroidery!</td></tr>
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Seriously, the lengths some of us will go to in order to save a favorite pair of jeans.<br />
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I have short legs; so short that I usually need shorten even "Short" jeans. Sometimes I don't bother, though, and eventually, I walk off the hems in the back. Usually I just shrug it off and buy new jeans, but some jeans just aren't replaceable.<br />
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Like these 2007 vintage Eddie Bauer embroidered jeans. Yes, I have had these jeans for almost 11 years. They just don't make them like this anymore! These were made before everyone switched to stretch denim, so they feel like real jeans. And there's bonus embroidery!<br />
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For those of you gifted with longer legs, who have absolutely no idea what I'm talking about when I say I walk the hems off, let me show you.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Y74Gq4csUN1zU_AP_ZaB9qNjdcv301lpkbSOl1FTr8BaQzXsRbYRa0W9l_YXVL2rDLyDMPuteWbBeOxHwm15yOGio_RmqTiBl56tqZhAG14Qyfl25bMdeyJ33NUQ6eRPF8yYTsvcqM8/s1600/jeans+sad+hem.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Y74Gq4csUN1zU_AP_ZaB9qNjdcv301lpkbSOl1FTr8BaQzXsRbYRa0W9l_YXVL2rDLyDMPuteWbBeOxHwm15yOGio_RmqTiBl56tqZhAG14Qyfl25bMdeyJ33NUQ6eRPF8yYTsvcqM8/s320/jeans+sad+hem.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These aren't my favorite jeans.<br />
These jeans are undeserving of salvation.<br />
But my favorite jeans looked just this bad.</td></tr>
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That's what a hem looks like after you've worn your too-long jeans for a couple of years. It seems like it would be impossible to save them, right?<br />
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Wrong!<br />
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If I were going to repair that hem on my non-favorite jeans, what I would do - what I did, in fact, do to re-hem my favorite jeans - would be to cut off the entire old hem leaving as much length as possible. You only need about 1/8" of relatively undamaged fabric for the "hem" to make this work.<br />
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After the old hem is cut off, unfold one side of some single-fold bias tape and apply it to the hem edge. (On the right side, Paula. The RIGHT SIDE.) Fold the bias tape to the wrong side, press it, and stitch it in place. I hand stitched mine first, because I never trust my ability to catch the bias tape when stitching from the other side.<br />
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And the finished hem looks like this!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpv5vS7oUZUNRC72MFUJKwebYB_zjPV5bsM-Cx2wlv68J_wkLe_jrzeeVTtQBoBXQC4Xf-UP72Lbp73J8pUjAAg_jsovBQhhrDzMNBloU9zj067HQZhlC_7hIYzhzQN14EppA3wcAfJ9Q/s1600/jeans+hem.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpv5vS7oUZUNRC72MFUJKwebYB_zjPV5bsM-Cx2wlv68J_wkLe_jrzeeVTtQBoBXQC4Xf-UP72Lbp73J8pUjAAg_jsovBQhhrDzMNBloU9zj067HQZhlC_7hIYzhzQN14EppA3wcAfJ9Q/s320/jeans+hem.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My favorite jeans, neatly hemmed again!</td></tr>
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Hopefully these will last another 11 years.<br />
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<span id="goog_1296771472"></span><span id="goog_1296771473"></span><br />Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-68675908338726010512018-02-10T10:30:00.001-08:002018-02-10T11:12:29.798-08:00Working Wardrobe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQm4DWuSdsN0zaHtYx9Vivn-XgtSGBEJnkd-4zTS5dC0RizikjjO6uaJHt50vS88qeWof-oEuR1X672hdPbNnOyZtj8MSfYb4I9L6dXPOFJUdeRaDv0bT-r7alkEikKvq7LasilPUGPgk/s1600/working+wardrobe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="388" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQm4DWuSdsN0zaHtYx9Vivn-XgtSGBEJnkd-4zTS5dC0RizikjjO6uaJHt50vS88qeWof-oEuR1X672hdPbNnOyZtj8MSfYb4I9L6dXPOFJUdeRaDv0bT-r7alkEikKvq7LasilPUGPgk/s320/working+wardrobe.jpg" width="248" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">Published in 1981, I believe (but am not certain) </span><i style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">Working Wardrobe; Affordable Clothes That Work For You! </i><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">was the first book to present the capsule concept of wardrobe planning. The author, Janet Wallach, has impressive credentials in the fashion industry. Her career, at the time of publication, spanned 20 years and included work as a fashion designer, fashion coordinator nad fashion merchandising director.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">The capsule concept involves planning your wardrobe around a grouping of basic garments in coordinating colors that can be worn interchangeably. As discussed in the book, a professional capsule consists of 12 garments and provides 48 different looks. The first capsule discussion includes illustrations of all the possible looks for the capsule...just in case you have trouble envisioning all the looks.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">The book includes numerous examples and color fashion illustrations of the concepts discussed, as well as 60 suggestions for capsule color combinations, also in color. Also included are case studies of various individuals and how the capsule concept was applied to their specific life circumstances. One of the more useful features of the case studies is a description of how the women used pieces from their current wardrobes as a basis for their first capsules. As the chapter headings suggest, the author has also expanded the concept beyond a professional wardrobe. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">As the book was published in 1981, some of the featured fashions dated; however, they are very fine examples of 1980s fashion illustrations. Since the author stresses classic pieces the problem is not as pronounced as in some books on wardrobe planning that feature trendier designs. One other thing that dates the book is the inclusion of dollar amounts in the case studies. Truly, some of the figures given are laughably small by today's standards; I could drop more in 15 minutes in Eddie Bauer than these women paid for entire wardrobes!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">The book also includes some blank capsule planning charts. If you're lucky enough to be able to purchase a copy of the book, good for you! Otherwise, the charts would be easy to reproduce on notebook paper or in your word processing program.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , "sans serif"; font-size: 14px;">This book is not a must have but it is an excellent book on wardrobe planning using the capsule concept. This book is out of print, but affordable used copies are available on <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Working-wardrobe-Affordable-clothes-that/dp/0446372536/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518287183&sr=8-2&keywords=working+wardrobe&dpID=51Fn5nIEBuL&preST=_SX218_BO1,204,203,200_QL40_&dpSrc=srch" target="_blank">Amazon</a>.</span>Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-76157502842103674152013-06-17T10:06:00.001-07:002013-06-17T10:06:41.065-07:00Under ConstructionI'm re-thinking and re-arranging the blog, so please bear with me while it's under construction.Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-86456604155667901902013-06-16T21:20:00.002-07:002013-06-16T21:20:39.618-07:00Filed Under: It Could Have Been So Much Worse<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNJjU4bqnOsNv1o1csfYBM0hRAMYzAjvkOnOg0VLHYkgWYCG0hlEGPQwloSibq0j_5aS2C3bmaUCZQsEcfb16tZ5o5M_eXIY5dmmi82uKbLtQYnFbzTB-TKssNOy-HJX1_-QUtzjVGShg/s1600/ruined+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNJjU4bqnOsNv1o1csfYBM0hRAMYzAjvkOnOg0VLHYkgWYCG0hlEGPQwloSibq0j_5aS2C3bmaUCZQsEcfb16tZ5o5M_eXIY5dmmi82uKbLtQYnFbzTB-TKssNOy-HJX1_-QUtzjVGShg/s200/ruined+pattern.jpg" width="200" /></a>
I love our dogs. Our girl, Shasta, is so sweet and Thor is, well, just like every other little boy...full of mischief.<br />
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Like this. I guess this is to be expected when you have to share your sewing room with two big, rowdy dogs.Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-46677381993666841902013-06-11T21:49:00.001-07:002013-06-11T23:00:50.016-07:00Seattle Street FashionWhat's the first thing that jumps out at you when you scroll through <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=seattle+street+fashion&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&rlz=1I7GPEA_en&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=gvi3UZaVDuf0igL-6YGoCw&ved=0CEcQsAQ&biw=1445&bih=779" target="_blank">these photos</a> taken on the streets of Seattle?<br />
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<a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2153/2396211638_5164f219ac.jpg?v=0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2153/2396211638_5164f219ac.jpg?v=0" width="226" /></a>You'd think that people here would rebel against the perpetually overcast skies by choosing bright, vibrant colors. Instead, they choose black, white, gray and the ever popular denim. What's up with that?<br />
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Take this girl, for example. Her outfit is well put together and she is undeniably cute, but, really, would a pop of red have killed her?
Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-45056605677701691872013-06-10T19:14:00.002-07:002013-06-10T19:16:13.976-07:00Plan CDo you remember the <a href="http://sewconfused.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-hong-kong-finish.html" target="_blank">Hong Kong finish</a> I was going to use in my Simplicity 2150 jacket? Yes, I remember it, too. I also remember that I had abandoned that plan, Plan A, if you will, because the flannel bias strips that looked so pretty were phenomenonally hard to work with. So I advanced to <a href="http://sewconfused.blogspot.com/2013/06/a-reassessment.html" target="_blank">Plan B</a>, overlocking the seam allowances of the jacket, which I thought would be fast and still be interesting if I used contrasting thread. <br />
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Plan B was scary for me, because I don't have a lot of experience using my serger, despite having owned it for roughly 15 years. Maybe longer. The knife terrifies me. It's sharp and it moves fast and no one has ever made the mistake of calling me coordinated. So I worry about ruining garments and I worry about ruining fingers. That's the potential for a double whammy as I'm reasonably certain that, were I to cut off a finger while serging a garment, I would also ruin the garment.<br />
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<a href="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t115/paulag1955/b4525689-7e84-4610-b6c6-32dcfddcd7b9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t115/paulag1955/b4525689-7e84-4610-b6c6-32dcfddcd7b9.jpg" width="181" /></a>Anyway, I pulled out my serger and stitched up a sample. Call me crazy, but that looked pretty darned good to me. Thus reassured that Plan B was <em>The Answer</em>, I started on my jacket seam allowances and...disaster. Okay, not on the magnitude of , say, an asteroid striking the earth, but, you know, almost. There were no tears, <em>but it was close.</em></div>
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So it was back to the sample scrap, where I barely tweaked some of the settings and serged all the edges again. I serged slowly; I serged fast. I barely skimmed the edges with the knives and I trimmed off full seam allowances, all with beautiful results.<br />
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So I - stupidly...go ahead and say you; you know you're thinking it - tried it again on the jacket, again with disastrous results.<br />
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Take a look at the photos I've included below and tell me what you think, because I'm at a loss; I've serged the edges of my rather large sample scrap until it's roughly 4" by 4" and have been unable to recreate the abnormal stitching.<br />
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<a href="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t115/paulag1955/44eff693-cb47-49ad-a435-444c14605e9e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t115/paulag1955/44eff693-cb47-49ad-a435-444c14605e9e.jpg" width="161" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t115/paulag1955/68c11baf-7928-45f1-87f9-b489269ce3ed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t115/paulag1955/68c11baf-7928-45f1-87f9-b489269ce3ed.jpg" width="216" /></a></div>
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Any ideas on what might make my serger act as though it's demon possessed? </div>
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And all of this brings me to Plan C, which is really Plan A...but without the flannel.</div>
Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-48981808685986675312013-06-08T21:01:00.003-07:002013-06-08T21:34:19.037-07:00A ReassessmentDo you remember the <a href="http://sewconfused.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-hong-kong-finish.html" target="_blank">Hong Kong finish</a> was was going to use in my Simplicity 2150 jacket? Yes, I remember it, too. It's just a distant memory, as I haven't set hands on the jacket in over a week. It's occurred to me that my enthusiasm for the jacket project has faded in direct proportion to the fiddly factor of the flannel I was using for the seam finish. I really want to get this project completed - I <em>need</em> the jacket - so I'm dumping the flannel. Since I don't have a good place for cutting bias strips right now, I think I'm going to overlock my seam allowances. Unlike my sewing machine, Lily, I don't have a very good relationship with my serger, so wish me luck.Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-12480802426548620372013-06-03T13:45:00.001-07:002013-06-03T13:45:18.864-07:00Dare I?<a href="http://assets.burdastyle.com/pattern_images/assets/000/000/386/_MG_3675_original_large.jpg?1338986568" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://assets.burdastyle.com/pattern_images/assets/000/000/386/_MG_3675_original_large.jpg?1338986568" width="212" /></a>How yummy is this wool biker jacket?
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Burda rates it advanced. Pondering.
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Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-78267719686658421502013-05-31T19:15:00.000-07:002013-05-31T19:15:00.031-07:00A Hong Kong Finish<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t115/paulag1955/2AC7021F-726F-440C-B9EB-278A9CEA584B-6827-0000164A9EBE60B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t115/paulag1955/2AC7021F-726F-440C-B9EB-278A9CEA584B-6827-0000164A9EBE60B3.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
Since my denim jacket, Simplicity 2150, is unlined, I'm choosing to use a <a href="http://lasewist.blogspot.com/2009/02/hong-kong-seams.html" target="_blank">Hong Kong finish</a> on most of the seam allowances. I love the way this plaid flannel looks, but I have a word of advice for you. If you ever feel the urge to cut bias strips of flannel to make your own bias binding...lie down until the feeling passes.Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-71191206214423197582013-05-29T12:30:00.002-07:002013-05-29T12:30:55.088-07:00A Denim Jacket<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7pDhosmwxMANgEDzAtaiGb1LiOINh5KXrfk40qQx7QMhbMWRvewD73PsLNeifnatmJsACbn2XzvajSaV7ff0kChnkbpR7UJFMiPH6w9S6_BVV3fXN2YaI6Etx9NJy0gwXjrCUwV7rL_k/s1600/S2150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7pDhosmwxMANgEDzAtaiGb1LiOINh5KXrfk40qQx7QMhbMWRvewD73PsLNeifnatmJsACbn2XzvajSaV7ff0kChnkbpR7UJFMiPH6w9S6_BVV3fXN2YaI6Etx9NJy0gwXjrCUwV7rL_k/s320/S2150.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
Right now I'm working on Simplicity 2150, View A, which I'm making in a wonderfully stretchy denim. Having just come back off a two-year sewing hiatus, my fitting skills were a little rusty. <br />
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I posted a question about trying to fit my suddenly much larger bust (despite having lost weight...who saw that coming) over at Pattern Review, considered the responses, then thought about it for a week before getting serious about making the required alterations.<br />
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Based on my high bust measurement (34"), I cut a size 12 at the shoulders and tapered out to what was probably about a 16 (I can't tell for sure because my pattern range ended at 14) at the waist, then back down to a 14 at the hips. The fit in the shoulders is beautiful.<br />
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Inexplicably (to me), just making the FBA solved almost all my problems and I only needed to make some very small adjustments to the seamlines to get an acceptable fit at the waist. (Note: Since I'm still in the process of losing weight, I will not be too concerned if the finished jacket is a bit snug. It <em>will</em> fit eventually.)<br />
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So now I have cut into the denim and actually sewn the front princess seams. I'm feeling pretty gung-ho and would like to make faster progress, but my back is thoroughly trashed and is slowing me down. I'll post photos of my altered pattern pieces hopefully later today. I need to dig through my fabric stash to find my black linen backdrop.Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-57466024448126482942013-05-27T23:51:00.001-07:002013-05-28T08:58:15.758-07:00Adding to the Pattern Stash, Dress Edition<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVS2jdPIGT0mLv3LorVk1d5hpsCBdc_RXWJpI_fHDFOckZ6WCN7l98-YeQYnqP_O1YuRh9e2dOLlwc4qXifj_5lDy586sAt4kRoEPOx8VENQDg3Jv7g-4-AL_p8855W581YVyGnRJ7niM/s1600/B5639.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVS2jdPIGT0mLv3LorVk1d5hpsCBdc_RXWJpI_fHDFOckZ6WCN7l98-YeQYnqP_O1YuRh9e2dOLlwc4qXifj_5lDy586sAt4kRoEPOx8VENQDg3Jv7g-4-AL_p8855W581YVyGnRJ7niM/s320/B5639.jpg" width="157" /></a>You can never have too many, right?</div>
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I don't work outside the home and my everyday attire is jeans and t-shirts, which suits the kinds of things I usually do, like housework and gardening. Unfortunately, this generally isn't what I want to sew. As I commented in a thread over at Pattern Review, I want to sew dresses, darn it! And so I hit the pattern sales at Hancock's and JoAnn last week.<br />
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And here are the latest additions.<br />
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<a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-5819-misses-dresses-project-runway-collection.aspx" target="_blank">Simplicity 2248</a><br />
<a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-1798-misses-dresses.aspx" target="_blank">Simplicity 2886</a><br />
<a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-7499-misses-plus-size-amazing-fit-dresses.aspx" target="_blank">Simplicity 1800</a><br />
<a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-5820-misses-plus-size-dresses.aspx" target="_blank">Simplicity 2249</a> (Yes, I realize this looks like a shapeless sack, even on the model, but it had a '30s farm wife vibe that I couldn't resist. I can see myself working in the garden wearing this dress.)<br />
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<a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6322-products-13863.php?page_id=108" target="_blank">McCall's 6322</a> (Yes, I realize this looks too young even for my youngest daughter, but it's an a-line dress, for crying out loud. It's all in the fabric choice, right? RIGHT?)<br />
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<a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/search-pages-624.php?search_term=5639&submit.x=0&submit.y=0" target="_blank">Butterick5639</a><br />
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The next two were impulse purchases.<br />
<a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/b5745-products-22644.php?page_id=147" target="_blank">Butterick 5745</a><br />
<a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/b5751-products-22649.php?page_id=424&search_control=display&list=search" target="_blank">Butterick 5751</a> (Yes, I realize now that this dress is designed for two-way stretch knits, but I didn't know that when I bought it. That's what I get for making an impulse purchase.)<br />
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I also picked up this dress; not sure why because it's 95% certain I will never make it. But...I love it so much.<br />
<a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6279-products-13582.php?page_id=101&search_control=display&list=search" target="_blank">McCall's 6279</a><br />
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So there you have it. Now let's see if anything comes of the dress fever.<br />
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<br />Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1219217309148021848.post-81373331241424526392013-05-27T14:19:00.002-07:002013-05-27T14:19:18.676-07:00And the Winner Is...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCmVG5d53VZ2sXx7KOmkkEhHh4gvM9j6gar-fw1ddjwWqLBjS2ge1NI5OpCx5g0v_U7oJzXfrN3ru9CCqIknSQeMgTC8npyLROuWQaMB0p0faDdGXYHIKL9SZLOMCR8CJRYFPcDO254c4/s1600/design+it+yourself+clothes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCmVG5d53VZ2sXx7KOmkkEhHh4gvM9j6gar-fw1ddjwWqLBjS2ge1NI5OpCx5g0v_U7oJzXfrN3ru9CCqIknSQeMgTC8npyLROuWQaMB0p0faDdGXYHIKL9SZLOMCR8CJRYFPcDO254c4/s320/design+it+yourself+clothes.jpg" width="250" /></a></div>
I held a (very small) random drawing and the winner of Cal Patch's <em>Design-It-Yourself Clothes</em> is lakaribane. Congratulations!<br />
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Keep checking back for more giveaways...the Series of Unfortunate Events that resulted in an extra copy of this book <em>may</em> have left me with others to give away as well.Paula Gardnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10934076985642320705noreply@blogger.com0